Nelson, located near the centre of Tasman Bay at the north of the South Island, is the gateway to Golden Bay and to Abel Tasman National Park. It is also in the centre of a thriving wine and food region.
Try some New Zealand green-lipped mussels and freshly caught fish with a glass of Nelson chardonnay or sauvignon blanc. There are several excellent winery tours you can try and we can help with suggestions of where to eat and what to drink.
Crafts abound in the Nelson area. The rings for the Lord of the Rings trilogy were made in Nelson by craftsman Jens Hansen (you can find him at 320 Trafalgar St, Nelson) and the wonderful Höglund Art Glass – International Glass Centre is just 20 minutes drive from the centre of Nelson. And don't forget to have a look at the World of Wearable Art (WOW!) Gallery and Classic Car Gallery while you are there! That's just for starters...
Nelson is centrally located at the top of the South Island making it easy to travel to Picton in the Marlborough Sounds, Blenheim (heart of Marlborough, New Zealand's best wine country) or Golden Bay within 90 minutes. It is only two hours to drive to the Nelson Lakes National Park and the northern-most skifields in the South Island.
We can recommend Kaiteriteri Beach north of Motueka (a leisurely hour's drive from Nelson), having had lovely beach holidays there swimming, relaxing on the golden sandy beach, boating or fishing. Scallops abound off the beach at the right time of the year. We know, because we have caught them! Further up the peninsular are bush walks, a marine sanctuary and dozens of secluded beaches. A paradise for walkers, kayakers or boaties.
In about 90 minutes you can drive west from Nelson to Takaka in Golden Bay which is geographically separated from the rest of the island by a range of hills capped by bizarre limestone karst outcrops shaped like jagged teeth. Negotiating the winding road leads down into a valley where artists and crafts people abound.
Golden Bay
In the photo to the right you can see just how crystal clear are the waters of the Waikoropupu (Pupu) Springs. They are a much-frequented diving locale with the clearest fresh water in the world, with a measured horizontal visibility of 63 metres. But at 11.7 degrees C it is wet-suit diving only! But to warm up there's always Pohara Beach on the eastern end of Golden Bay with plenty of sand and a gently shelving beach.
If you have three to five spare days, then the 80 kilometre (50 mile) Heaphy Track starts near Collingwood and winds its way down to Karamea on the West Coast. A truly great walk. If you want a 'green rush', then think about the Heaphy Track.
If you love wine, Blenheim is the place to be. Without any doubt, New Zealand's best sauvignon blancs, and many of our best chardonnay and pinot noir wines are produced in the Marlborough Region, of which Blenheim is the heart. A good place to start is to try one of several wine tasting tours that operate out of Blenheim and we can arrange these for you or make recommendations. Remember it is your holiday and you call the shots.
From Blenheim, it is a leisurely half hour drive to Picton and the Marlborough Sounds. Alternatively, it is about an hour and a half's drive to Kaikoura where you can take a flight or a boat to go watching whales just off the coast. On the way to Kaikoura look out for fresh crayfish (New Zealand lobster) from stalls on the side of the road or visit seal colonies that are right by the road at several points.
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough
Marlborough's flagship sauvignon blanc wine made by Cloudy Bay Vineyards near Blenheim bears the name of this bay on the Marlborough coast.
From Blenheim you can also gain access to Molesworth Station, which at 180,476 hectares in area (approx. 500,000 acres, or over 700 square miles) is New Zealand's largest farm. The scale of the place is unfathomable and the scenery simply spectacular. Molesworth Station is open to the public by way of the Acheron Road from 28 December to 1 April, from 7.00am to 7.00pm but weather conditions or fire danger can cause the road to be closed without warning. It is also unsuitable for certain types of vehicles (e.g. buses, long vehicles or caravans). You can drive right down to Hanmer Springs weather and road conditions permitting, but you need to allow time - the road is not exactly a state highway! Another option is to plan a tour with one of several operators that organise tours through Molesworth Station . We can help with these.
At Kaikoura the continental shelf dives very quickly into the abyss of the Kaikoura Canyon which is 2 kilometres deep. As a result sea life abounds close to the shore, including the giant squid that is part of the diet of the sperm whales that frequent this part of the ocean at all times of the year.
This image is courtesy of Whale Watch New Zealand
If you would like to do so, book a trip to see them. You can fly by fixed wing aircraft, helicopter or take a boat trip. If you would rather, you can book a trip to swim with the dusky dolphins.
From Kaikoura you can travel south to Christchurch or straight through to Hanmer Springs. Be warned, though, the route from Kaikoura to Hanmer was gravelled rather than tar-sealed for part of the way last time we were on it. Unlike in the UK this is unfortunately a quite common feature of New Zealand back- country roads. It adds to the charm, but it does make your teeth rattle!
We think these are the best thermal pools in New Zealand; Hanmer is a gem of a place that is often missed by tourists from overseas. The springs come from deep within the earth and are at varying temperatures from 36 degrees Celsius in the chlorinated rock pools to 42 degrees (and unchlorinated) in the sulphur pools. It is a large complex and we have often travelled the two hours from Christchurch to Hanmer for a soak for the day.
One of our most magical memories was soaking in the pools in the middle of winter with snow falling gently all around us. Absolutely beautiful.
To make the most of Hanmer there are a large number of walks - the Conical Hill walk is our favourite. It winds its way up through a conifer forest to give a terrific view of the surrounding countryside.
Who said it doesn't get cold in New Zealand? Ducks standing on the water in Hanmer mid-winter. Conical Hill is the rounded 'hump' on the right of the picture.
If you prefer a more exhilarating end to your visit, leaving Hanmer to the south is a high bridge over the Waiau River from which Thrill Seeker's Canyon, a bungy jumping firm operates (they also offer jet-boating on the Waiau River and river rafting as well). We know it well: the sixteenth birthday of one of our children was spent bungy jumping off that bridge! And of course in winter there is always the ski field just above the township at Hanmer...
Christchurch is our favourite city in New Zealand. The first people to live in the area were Maori about 1,000 years ago. They hunted large flightless birds named moa, some of which were larger than ostriches. Further migrations of Maori continued until the 1830s. In 1850-51 the first organised settlements of English settlers landed on the four ships Randolph, Cressy, Sir George Seymour and Charlotte Jane left England in September 1850 and arrived in New Zealand in December 1850. The city was established by royal charter in July 1856. Today about 350,000 people live in Christchurch which is the lead city of the Canterbury Province inhabited by over half a million people.
The strong English influence pervades Christchurch to this day. Even today many fifth generation Christchurch-born New Zealanders talk with an English accent. The architecture and gardens have a strong English 'feel'. In fact, Christchurch is known as New Zealand's 'garden city' with good reason.
There is so much to do in Christchurch. Here are some suggestions...
Arts Centre. Formally Canterbury University, the Arts Centre has a wide variety of arts and crafts represented. There are good restaurants. Try Annie's Wine Bar, or for a more relaxed studenty feel, try the Dux de Lux (restaurants, bars and brewery) and a huge variety of cheap ethnic food served in mobile caravans on the south side of the complex.
From the Arts Centre you can hop on a tram and take a tour of central Christchurch - a good way to see the centre of town - especially because you can buy a ticket that lets you get on and off as much as you like and lasts for two consecutive days.
Alternatively you can buy a tram and punt combination ticket which lets you travel by tram and take a punt ride on the Avon River - a must if you are visiting Christchurch for the first time.
Hagley Park. This lovely park covers 21 hectares (52 acres) and is right in the centre of Christchurch. You can walk through it or around it, run it, cycle it or play golf in it - yes there is a golf course in the centre of Christchurch! Christchurch botanical gardens are located there - just across the road from the Arts Centre and adjacent to the Canterbury Museum.
Wining and dining. There are many fine restaurants in Christchurch. Some of the most accessible are along 'The Strip' one block west of Colombo Street - Christchurch's main road - and adjacent to the lovely Avon River which wends its way through the city. The food is reasonably priced and beautifully presented and Italian, Asian (Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Indian and Korean), French, European and American are all represented. New Zealand seafood is the best in the world. As for the wine, try a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir to accompany your meal.
Port Hills. Overlooking Christchurch to the south are the Port Hills. Of volcanic origin, along with the whole of Banks Peninsula of which they are a part, they provide a magnificent vantage point from which to view Christchurch, Lyttelton Harbour, the whole of the Canterbury Plains and the Southern Alps. If you have a rental car drive to the southern end of Colombo Street, cross the round-about and head on up the Dyers Pass Road until you reach cross roads at the summit. Turn a sharp left and continue along the crater rim. There are plenty of places to pull off the road and park. You will want to ramble so take a good, strong pair of shoes. If you continue east you will eventually come to an intersection. Turning right takes you down to Lyttelton Harbour from whence you can take the Lyttelton tunnel back to Christchurch. Turning left takes you down to Sumner Beach where you can follow the coast road back into the centre of Christchurch. While in Sumner make sure you take a stroll along the Esplanade.
View from the Port Hills towards Lyttelton Harbour entrance (on left)
Antarctic Centre. Located adjacent to Christchurch International Airport, the Antarctic Centre is a museum of the Antarctic. Since 1955 Christchurch has been the US Operation Deep Freeze base for flights to and from the Antarctic and is the departure point for aircraft leaving for New Zealand's Scott Base. The centre is well worth a look.
Mount Hutt Ski field. We have many fond memories of family skiing days on Mt Hutt which is so accessible from Christchurch. You can drive direct from Christchurch in about an hour (driving to the field itself can take another hour on top of that). Alternatively, Methven is a good place to stay for accessibility but book early! Compared with European prices skiing in New Zealand is cheap and with a strong pound or Euro you can't lose!
Banks Peninsula. When Captain Cook first visited New Zealand in 1769 the map he drew of New Zealand had what we now know as a peninsula (and which he named after the botanist Sir Joseph Banks) drawn as an island. He was nearly right. The peninsula was once (albeit eons ago) a volcanic island - one of the few areas of volcanicity in the South Island, and now long since extinct. As the flood plains of the braided South Island Rivers coalesced and extended out to sea, Banks Island became joined to the mainland. The harbours around the peninsula of which Lyttelton and Akaroa are only two, were formed when volcanic caldera collapsed and were flooded by sea water.
Take your time as you drive the 87 kilometres from Christchurch to Akaroa. Allow two hours for the journey because the road winds its way up and over the summit ridge. On the way you will pass Lake Ellesmere, a huge salt water lake enclosed by the Kaitorete Spit, Lake Forsyth (Lake Wairewa) and Little River. Stop off at Little River for a cup of coffee in the Little River Gallery. If it is a clear day as you travel up the ridge overlooking Akaroa, you should be able to make out Mount Herbert (3,014 ft or 918 metres), Mount Fitzgerald (2,710 ft, 826 metres), and Mount Sinclair (2,763 ft, 842 metres), the last-named lying just outside the Akaroa basin.
Travelling down the other side, stop in at the Barry's Bay Cheese Factory - our favourite is the Maasdam cheese filled with large holes and which has a wonderfully sweet, nutty flavour.
On the right just before you get to Barry's Bay you can travel up to French Farm where there is a vineyard. Before you get to Devauchelles there is a narrow spit of land culminating in a tear-drop shaped terraced headland rising to over 100 metres. Named Onawe Point it was the site of the Takapuneke Maori fortified village or pa. In 1832 the infamous Maori warrior chief Te Rauparaha, colluding with a dubious sea captain named John Stewart of the brig Elizabeth, captured the paramount chief Te Maiharanui and massacred over 200 Maori inhabitants of the pa. This incident hastened the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840 between the British Crown and representatives of Maori clans.
Follow the road round to the south through Devauchelles and thence to Akaroa. Don't worry too much if it rains, which it is quite likely to do - all those hills do attract the weather and there is nothing between them and the Antarctic should a southerly wind decide to blow, so wrap up warm!
A little history In 1838 Captain Langlois, a French whaler, sought to set up a port at Akaroa to service whaling ships. After a shady land deal with the local Maori he returned to France, founded the Nanto-Bordelaise company, and sailed for New Zealand with a group of French and German families aboard the Comte de Paris to found a French colony in the South Island of New Zealand.
However, by August 1840 when Langlois and his would-be colonists arrived at Banks Peninsula, governor Hobson had already presided over the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi (the signatories including two chiefs at Akaroa in May) and New Zealand had been claimed for the British Crown. Hobson quickly dispatched HMS Britomart from the Bay of Islands to Akaroa with police magistrates on board when he heard that the arrival of the French colonists was pending. While the French languished in unfavourable weather at Pigeon Bay on the north side of Banks Peninsula, the Union Flag was raised at Greens point between Akaroa and Takapuneke asserting British sovereignty over the South Island.
Today... many of the street names are still in French and it retains an old world charm that is quite seductive. We have many fond memories of family holidays in Akaroa.
Make sure you buy a meal of fish and chips at Akaroa Fish & Chips (59 Beach Rd, Akaroa) - they cook the freshest fish in the world. And for sheer charm, visit Tree Crop Farm. If you have time go for an Akaroa Harbour Cruise on the Canterbury Cat. You are highly likely to see the Hector's dolphin the rarest dolphin in the world - a cutie at its maximum adult length of 1.2-1.4 metres (compared with 4 metres for the bottlenose). And you will also see fur seals, salmon and mussel farms and a wide variety of wildlife. If you want to swim with the dolphins try Dolphins up Close on the main wharf in Akaroa. There is a marvellous Ngai Tahu Maori meeting house at Onuku, a few bays round from Akaroa.
Franz Josef
The Franz Josef and Fox glaciers are among the most accessible in the world. You can drive or walk to them with ease from the respective townships of Fox and Franz Josef 5 kilometres away and at 44 degrees south the surrounding climate is relatively mild.
There are several options for getting there. Our favourite is the Trans Alpine Rail crossing from Christchurch to Greymouth via Arthur’s Pass. It is deservedly one of the world’s great rail journeys – not because of its length (it only takes four and a half hours to make the crossing) but because of the scenery on the way.
Driving the Arthur’s Pass from Christchurch to Greymouth is also a good alternative.
Contrasting with the dry rain shadow country east of the Southern Alps, the West Coast is wet, so be prepared for days of rain with a good, warm raincoat. Try not to be too disappointed if you cannot see the lovely scenes in the tourist brochures!
When you reach Greymouth head south. Well worth a look is Shanty Town, 10 kilometres south of Greymouth. Shanty Town is a memorial to the West Coast Gold Rush, which began in 1864. You can pan for gold there – and yes, you do strike it lucky. When you pass through Hokitika, stop and browse the shops for greenstone or jade which was highly prized by Maori to make implements, ornaments and weapons. In March, make sure you visit the Wild Foods Festival for a taste of authentic New Zealand fare – all tastes are catered for, but beware, there are some truly exotic foods on offer!
It is 136 kilometres from Hokitika to Franz Josef so allow at least one and a half hours for the trip if travelling by car. Franz Josef, and its partner Fox Glacier (about 20 kilometres south along State Highway 6) are about the same length (12-13 kilometres). Fox Glacier is a veritable thoroughbred racehorse of a glacier – currently advancing at the incredible rate of about one metre per day.
A lovely Maori story gives the origin of Franz Josef glacier. Known in Maori as Ka Roimata o Hinehukatere (the tears of Hinehukatere), Hinehukatere loved to climb the Southern Alps with her lover Tawe. When the less experienced climber Tawe fell to his death, Hinehukatere wept and her copious tears froze to form the glacier.
Take that as a warning that climbing in the Alps and on the glaciers can be treacherous: whatever you do, if you are contemplating climbing on either glacier, make sure that it is a guided trip – when Heather and two of our children took a tour of the glacier in 2002, a climber had fallen and died there not long previously.
Other options are:
Helicopter and fixed wing flights over the glaciers and Southern Alps
Lake Okarito (about 28 kilometres from Franz Josef) – the only nesting site for white herons (kotuku in Maori) in New Zealand
Lake Matheson which is famous for its reflections of Mt Cook (Aoraki) and the Southern Alps on a good day. The lake is only about 6 kilometres from Fox township, and you can walk around it in 90 minutes. Best times for those famous reflections are dawn or dusk, but you are fortunate indeed if it is fine enough.
Fox Glacier to Wanaka via the Haast Pass
The 270 kilometre drive through to Wanaka from Fox via Haast Pass takes about three hours. It is a spectacular journey with a primeval beauty of its own but bear in mind that rain falls here on half the days of the year. The wettest part of the journey is at Roaring Billy on the Haast River where the mean average rainfall is 5840 millimetres – that’s over 5 metres of rain every year!
The finger-like basins of lakes Wanaka and Hawea were carved out by glaciers. Only quarter of an hour separates them in travelling time and it is only an hour’s drive from either lake to Queenstown
Queenstown has so much to offer. Yes, it is commercial, touristy and busy. But for all that, it is an area of unsurpassed beauty. To get the best persective on this take the road from Wanaka over the Crown Range (not forgetting to stop off at the Cardrona Hotel on the way) but be warned - this is the highest main highway in New Zealand reaching 1119 metres above sea level and can be hazardous in winter. Taking this route is much shorter in distance at 70 km (44 miles) than the alternative route (120 km/75 miles) through Cromwell but it will take you about the same time when you take into account the stops for photos and twists and turns on the route.
Getting there. You can drive, pedal a bike, take a bus or fly (Queenstown has its own international airport and connections are good to the most popular tourist spots in New Zealand). The roads are good but can be icy in winter, so be careful.
When you get there, make sure you take the Skyline Gondola up the top of Bob's Peak for a spectacular view of Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables. Looking south you can see Queenstown Hill (902 metres - 2958 feet) out to the left and Cecil Peak (1,974 metres - 6477 feet) and Walter Peak (1815 metres - 5956 feet) out to the right.
As you will see, the city of Queenstown sits on the northern edge of Lake Wakatipu about where its inverted 'z' shape begins its final swoop southward. The lake was carved out by glacial action during the last Ice Age about 15,000 years ago and lies in a basin overlooked by the nearby Remarkables Mountain Range. Lake Wakatipu is nearly 400 metres (1,200 feet) deep at its deepest point, covers 290 square kilometres and is 84 kilometres long.
There are good skifields nearby including Cardrona, Coronet Peak (1658 metres) and the Remarkables (highest point is Double Cone at 2343 metres- 7844 feet). A celebration of all things winter called the Winter Festival takes place in Queenstown in June and July and is not to be missed!
Forty kilometres from Queenstown and at the northernmost tip of Lake Wakatipu, is the township of Glenorchy (population 200). You have the option from Glenorchy of taking a flight to Milford Sound (weather permitting), beginning the world class Routeburn (32 kilometres and 3 days) , Greenstone, Caples, Rees or Dart Valley walking tracks, or taking tours of locations where the Lord of the Rings movies were shot.
Dinner and voyage on Lake Wakatipu on board TSS Earnslaw. Consider a trip up Lake Wakatipu to Walter Peak Sheep Station to see a real New Zealand high country farm
Arrowtown - Less than half an hour's drive from Queenstown (21 kilometres - 13 miles) and just off the road from Wanaka or Cromwell to Queenstown, this lovely town is redolent with its gold-mining history. Best times to visit are in the Autumn (April and May) when the deciduous trees are a spectacular riot of colour
Vineyard tours - some of New Zealand's finest pinot noir wine is made in the Gibbston Valley. Tours are available.
Flights to an from Milford Sound (and most other places for that matter)
Rudyard Kipling once described Milford as the eighth wonder of the world for good reason. Here everything must be conveyed in superlatives:
The rainfall alone is the second highest in the world at seven metres a year
Mitre Peak, the chiselled mountain that looks like a bishop’s hat, at 1692 metres – 5560 feet, is one of the highest in the world to rise directly from the ocean’s floor
The two highest of the permanent waterfalls at Milford Sound, the Bowen Falls and the Stirling Falls plummet 160 metres (526 feet) and 146 metres (505 feet) respectively
The sand flies are as big as small birds (just tricking – it just seems like it, so take plenty of insect repellent!)
There are literally hundreds of waterfalls cascading down the mountainsides when it rains. That sight is worth going on its own to behold, so it doesn’t matter too much if it is wet or fine
The 1.2 kilometre long Homer Tunnel provides road access to Milford Sound and is carved out of solid granite. It was started in 1935 by five men with picks, shovels and wheelbarrows and finally finished in 1953
Milford and Doubtful Sounds are in reality u-shaped glacially cut fiords from which the glaciers responsible have long since receded. The tributary glaciers flowing into these valleys have also receded leaving hanging valleys from which waterfalls often now descend. The jagged mountain shapes have been carved by the combined action of continued up-thrust due to the collision of the Pacific and Australian Plates and the sculpting action of wind, ice and water. Getting there
Milford is somewhat ‘out of the way’ so getting there can be an ordeal unless you plan carefully. Here are some suggestions:
Fly from Queenstown or Glenorchy to Milford or Te Anau (these options are very weather dependant)
A visit to Lake Manapouri. The lake itself is beautiful but buried in the heart of the mountains across the lake is a huge hydro-electric power station carved out of solid granite. Well worth taking the guided bus-boat-bus trip across the lake and down the access tunnel to the power station
A dive trip in Milford or Doubtful Sounds – here is some of the best diving in the world: visibility is 30+ metres and by a quirk of nature usually deep-living species including black corrals, live close to the surface
Invercargill Invercargill is New Zealand’s southern-most and most hospitable city. The further south you go in New Zealand, they say, the friendlier the people get and there is not much further south that you can go! Listen for the Scottish burr in a Southlander’s accent (ask a Southlander to say ‘bird’ and it will sound something like ‘birrrd’).
Things to do
From here, take a drive south to Bluff – the southernmost point on the New Zealand mainland. Bluff is the oyster capital of New Zealand and the boats set sail from here to harvest the finest oysters anywhere in the world. They hold the Bluff Oyster & Food Festival here in May each year.
Sail or fly Foveaux Strait for Stewart Island, New Zealand’s southern-most island. Stewart Island is unspoiled and is one of the most sparsely populated areas in New Zealand. It is also an area of great natural beauty and populated with rare and unique flora and fauna. Adventure activities abound from fishing, diving, walking, tramping and hunting.
Travel to Dunedin via the Catlins an area of forest, farmland and seascapes. A range of adventure activities is available.
Dunedin Dunedin is known as the 'Edinburgh of the South' owing to its Scottish ancestry and hills. Founded by Scottish setllers in 1848, it is New Zealand's oldest city, although its history goes back to about 1100 AD when Maori people first settled in the area. 600 years later Captain Cook arrived in his circumnavigation of New Zealand. But it was not until 1861 when gold was discovered in 1861 at Gabriel's Gully near Lawrence in Central Otago that it really 'took off', doubling its numbers in six months and trebling in size within three years. By 1870 it was New Zealand's richest and largest city.
Otago University Clock Tower and cherry trees in spring bloom
These days about 125,000 people live in Dunedin, around 25,000 of whom are students known endearingly to the locals as 'scarfies'. It is the students who give the town much of its zest and lively 'feel'. Otago University in Dunedin, New Zealand's oldest, has a hard-earned international reputation. It is close to the botanical gardens and a wander through the gardens and university is worthwhile if you need to 'chill'.
Visitors often remark on the richness of the Victorian and Edwardian (and even Jacobean-style) architecture in Dunedin, albeit with a colonial 'flavour' which makes the city quite distinctive.
if you go to Dunedin, be prepared for squally and changeable weather - especially in winter. When the wind whistles up from the south there is little to stop it bringing the biting cold up from Antarctica.
Things to do
Wander through the botanical gardens and University grounds
Take a walk (not a drive!) up Baldwin Street in the North East Valley, which has a 19°, or 35% (1:2.86) slope and makes it into the Guinness Book of Records as the steepest street in the world. Whatever you do don't get in a wheelie bin and ride down it as two students did - one of them paid for it with her life. You may decide, though, to participate in the annual Baldwin Street Gutbuster in which about a thousand brave souls walk and even run to the top and then back down to the bottom
Take a drive out onto Otago (Otago is the Anglicisation of the Maori Otakou) Peninsula - a wind-swept place that has a wild beauty all its own. The dry-stone walls are very reminiscent of Scotland or the Yorkshire dales. Don't forget to visit Larnach's Castle (you need to read up on the history first, because 'castle' is a bit of a misnomer). If you are interested in wildlife, then call in on the albatross colony out by the tip of the peninsula (known as Taiaroa Head) and the wildlife including yellow-eyed penguins and seal colonies dotted all along the coast.
Watch a game of provincial rugby at Carisbrook. There is no more parochial rugby home crowd anywhere in the world than at Carisbrook (also known as the 'House of Pain').
Visit Speights Brewery and sample some Speights Beer - the beer for the Southern Man (we kid you not!). Good on ya mate!
Take the Taieri Gorge Railway from Dunedin to Middlemarch. This is a trip we would highly recommend because it gives you a feel for the wild remoteness of Central Otago.
Further Afield -Day Trip 1
You can do the following 'round trip' in one day* (takes a minimum of 5 hours):
Drive north out of Dunedin until you reach Palmerston, about 40 minutes north of Dunedin.
Drive about 50 minutes to Ranfurly. Stop at the old railway station museum for a comfort stop and a browse.
Continue west about 20 minutes until you see a turn-off in the Ida Valley.
Drive down the Ida Valley 5 minutes to Oturehua and have a drink at the Oturehua Pub for morning tea. Have a look for the photo on the wall of the Massey Ferguson tractor submerged to its hubs in water after it went through the ice when grooming it for the local curling tournament known as the Bonspeil which is held at the Idaburn Dam.
Also have a look at the Gilchrist's general store across the road which is a living museum of country life 100 years ago. If you can have a look at the Hayes Factory where, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, some of the most innovative farming tools and equipment used to 'break in' the land in New Zealand, was developed and manufactured. It is also here that the Brass Monkey motorcycle rally is held every year which is attended by bikers from all over the world.
Continue south to Poolburn about 10 minutes further on (where some of the Lord of the Rings was shot) and up over the hills and down the other side to Omakau (about another 10 minutes).
Not far from Omakau is Ophir - which with Oturehua shares the distinction of regularly having the lowest temperatures in New Zealand (minus 25°. In summer it can reach over 40°).
Drive the 20 minutes south from Omakau to Alexandra for lunch.
Turn left and head up across the Clutha River to Roxburgh (about 30 minutes). If you are travelling in summer don't forget to look out for apricots, cherries, peaches, plums and apples for sale between Roxburgh and Ettrick. They are second to none.
Next stop is Lawrence (40 minutes from Roxburgh). Gold was found near here at Gabriel's Gully. You can still visit the site and get some sense of the scale involved, go for walks and even go gold-panning.
Travel the 30 minutes to Milton, turn left and head the 30 minutes north to Mosgiel for a late afternoon tea.
From Mosgiel head back to Dunedin (depending on traffic it should take you between 15-30 minutes).
*But the day will probably be a long one!
Further Afield -Day Trip 2.
Allow a minimum of 5 hours for this journey. Part of the trip takes you along a narrow gravel road, so exercise care and discretion. But the scenery is out of this world:
Head north of Dunedin to Palmerston (about 40 minutes).
Turn left and head for Ranfurly. After about 45 minutes, and before reaching Ranfurly, you will reach Kyeburn.
At Kyeburn, turn right and follow the signs to the Dansey's Pass Road. This is where the road gets narrow and is unsealed.
Continue along the Dansey's Pass Road until you reach the Coach Inn where you will stop for a drink, a bite to eat or some lunch.
Keep going until you reach Duntroon which is on the banks of the mighty Waitaki River. The colour is turquoise due to the glacial flour (ground up rock) that is dumped into it from the meltwater of the glaciers of the Southern Alps. Depending on how long you stopped at Dansey's Pass it may take you between 1 hour 40 and 2 hours 40 for the Kyeburn-Duntroon stage of the journey.
Turn right and keep going until you reach the junction with State Highway 1.
Turn right and keep going until you reach Oamaru. You have earned a comfort stop and a drink so enjoy the leisurely pace of Oamaru. It will take you about 30 minutes to travel from Duntroon to Oamaru.
Keep going for about 30 minutes south until you reach Moeraki. It is worth the stop because here are the renowned Moeraki Boulders which are spheres of rock between about one and two meters across. They are known as 'septarian concretions' and are cemented together by calcite (and about 1% dolomite). According to scientists they were formed about 60 million years ago and as the cliffs weather, new ones appear out of the cliff and roll on to the beach. There is a visitors centre at Moeraki where you can take a comfort stop and buy something to eat and drink.
Head south for the 60 minute drive back to Dunedin.
There are plenty of other day trips you can do from Dunedin. We have suggested just one. If you would like more information this can be provided for you as we work with you to develop your itinerary.
The rail trail follows the path of the old railway line from Middlemarch (where the Taieri Gorge railway ends) to Clyde, near Cromwell. It is about 150 kilometres in length and takes 3-5 days to bike the whole distance. If you have time, go for it! You will not get a better 'feel' for what it is like to live in Central Otago on a limited time scale than this. Small rural villages, rivers, lakes, karst landscapes, relics of old gold mines and big sheep farms are all part of the experience. The trip is rated 9th of the Automobile Associations '101 Must-do's for Kiwis'.
For more information visit Dunedin's i-Site Visitor Centre on-line or the physical address which is open 365 days a year:
Dunedin City Council - Customer Services
50 The Octagon
Central City 9016
Dunedin
We have devoted so much space to this area because we love it so much! We hope that you will see why...
The splendid turquoise-coloured twin lakes Tekapo and Pukaki (and their southern counterpart, Lake Ohau) lie in the Mackenzie Basin - a geological feature resulting from glacial action that ended about 15,000 years ago. Bounded by limestone 'downland' to the west and the Southern Alps to the east, the 'Mackenzie Country' or just 'the Mackenzie' as it is colloquially known has a raw, bleak beauty that changes remarkably with the seasons. Covered in distinctive clumps of tussock grass and thorny matagouri, in summer it is semi-desert, while in winter it is blanketed by snow. The turquoise waters of Lakes Tekapo and Pukaki and the great rivers crossing the Canterbury Plains are the result of 'glacial flour' - finely ground greywacke rock ground into fine particles and held in suspension.
Access to the Mackenzie Basin is primarily via Kurow and Omarama (heading from the south and west), the Lindis Pass and Omarama (from the south) and via Fairlie and Burke's Pass (from the north and west).
The Mackenzie Basin was named after a legendary Gaelic-speaking Scot named James Mackenzie who was captured in March 1855 in the pass bearing his name with 1,000 sheep from the Levels sheep station north of Timaru. He was sentenced to five years' hard labour for sheep stealing, but escaped in May and June 1855 and was recaptured both times. Subsequent investigation by a magistrate in Christchurch found flaws in the police case and Mackenzie's trial and he was pardoned in 1856.
However, Mackenzie became something of a folk hero and his name will be forever inscribed in kiwi folklore.
Omarama
The town that is the southern gateway to the Mackenzie Basin is world famous for gliding. Wonderful conditions for gliding are created by the powerful wave clouds, clear air and thermals rising over the Southern Alps. These produce
some of the best conditions and most spectacular scenery in the world for soaring. If, instead of heading north, you take the road east and then south east to Sailors Cutting (less than ten minutes' drive) or Otematata (about 25 minutes away) you have good access to Lake Benmore, New Zealand's largest man-made lake which covers 75 square kilometres. If you are reach Otematata, turn left and head north to Benmore township. It is wonderful for water skiiing and a variety of other water sports. And its brown and rainbow trout and salmon fishing is one of its drawcards. On the eastern side of the lake are two of New Zealand's largest and most famous sheep and cattle farms, Haldon and Black Forest stations which between them cover in excess of 70,000 acres (about 30,000 hectares). Various treks are available that take you through this area.
Preparing to muster merino sheep on Ben Avon Station, Ahuriri Valley, near Omarama
Alternatively, head north out of Omarama and after about ten minutes take the turn-off to your left to Lake Ohau which, because of its spectacular scenery and wonderful skifield, is a highly recommended detour. You get a real 'feel' for what living on a New Zealand high country farm might be like.
Twizel
About 25 minutes north of Omarama is the town of Twizel (the i sound is long, not short - it doesn't rhyme with fizzle!) which was built as a construction town in the 1960s for the Upper Waitaki Power Development - the largest hydro scheme ever undertaken in New Zealand. It was not meant to survive as a town once construction was finished, but local residents campaigned for it to continue and it has remained as a thriving service town of 1,200 people to the farming, sport and tourist industries.
Lake Ruataniwha (that is the lake you can see from State Highway 8) is Twizel's lake and is one of the top venues in New Zealand for rowing. But it is not Twizel's only attraction. Walking, hiking, climbing and fishing for trout and salmon are just some of the activities that are easily accessible from this town.
It is a great place to stay en route to Mt Cook (or Aoraki as it is known in Maori) - New Zealand's highest mountain.
Lake Pukaki
Twizel to Lake Tekapo is a non-stop drive of about 40 minutes. You will not want to do that because there is plenty to see on the way. Not even ten minutes out of Twizel heading north you come to Lake Pukaki. Stop at the scenic lookout spot on the way. Here take the time to drink in the colour of the lake and (if it is a good day, which it frequently is) a magnificent view of Mt Cook at its apex.
From there, take the signposted canal road which follows the route of the hydro canal from Pukaki to Tekapo instead of State Highway 8. On the way you will notice Mt Mary, an imposing landmark out to your right. In only a few minutes you will come to a salmon farm which breeds the healthiest, fattest salmon in the world. On the banks of the canal on the downstream side of the salmon farm is a good place to fish for big trout because the excess feed from the salmon farm is washed down the canal and devoured greedily by all the other fish wanting a 'free lunch'.
Before you know it you will arrive at Lake Tekapo. Just breathe in that clear mountain air or take a paddle in that milky blue (and freezing cold) lake. We suggest taking the path from Tekapo township and climbing the 300 metres to Mt John. The trek will take you 2 and a half to three hours but if you take the trouble you will be rewarded with 360 degree views of the surrounding countryside.
While at the summit, have a cup of coffee in the glass-walled Astro Cafe and take a look at the observatory which houses a 1.8 metre astronomical telescope, the largest in New Zealand. Mt John was chosen as an observatory site for the naturally dark skies above the Mackenzie Basin which are devoid of polluting light, its very clear nights and the stable and transparent atmosphere. There are four main telescopes at the summit each housed in its own dome.
We can thoroughly recommend taking an Air Safaris flight from Tekapo airstrip over the Southern Alps. Just do it!
While in Tekapo make sure you visit the iconic Church of the Good Shepherd.